Days 16 through 21

Day 16

Left Vegas as early as possible – NOT my scene!  When you have poker and slot machines in the gas station, you really need to find another hobby.  Free breakfast at the Denny's INSIDE the sad little casino attached to the hotel.

Headed out to Death Valley.  Temperature topped out at 111 degrees at 10:00 in the morning.  I can’t imagine driving through this place during the middle of the day.  We drove all the way through and I have to admit that about halfway through the 77 miles, I started imagining the tires melting.  There was not another soul in sight for as far as the eye could see (and that was far).  When we finally got to Badwater (at 282 feet below sea level, it is the lowest elevation in the U.S.) we started to see lots of people.  I definitely breathed a sigh of relief and am happy to report that our little car is a TROOPER!

Came out of Death Valley to find out that there were two other mountain ranges to pass up and over with other death-like valleys in between.  When we came to the third valley we all started betting what the temperature would top out at – the loser had to clean the dishes that night.  I voted 103 F, I was the definite loser with Eiley winning out at 106 F.  

Eiley's luck continued in Death Valley and this one made her soooo excited, since she didn’t see the roadrunner in NM.  There was one just hanging out at the visitor’s center in Death Valley - like it was posing for her. 

We have learned our first lesson in California – the only reason to drive up is so that you can drive down.  There is nothing of any interest at the top.   But as you come down the plants change and you get to see the famous Joshua tree of the Mojave.   There seemed to be an advancing army of trees.  We met with them and all did our peace treaty dance – safe again.

As if Death Valley wasn’t weird enough, we went to a ghost town today – Bodie.  Strangest place I have ever been.  It is like the people just up and left this place exactly like it was almost 100 years ago.  Jamey was completely creeped out and couldn’t wait to leave (he claims the dusty, falling down interiors were too much like a horror film).  The girls thought it was cool and just kept exploring. 

We made it out of Bodie and started heading out to find a backwoods campsite near Mono Lake.  Not sure if we were going to make it to Yosemite, since Tioga pass was closed due to rock slides.  Hey!  That is part of the girls’ curriculum, so at least they can see the reality of the issue.  We found a beautiful site near the lake.  We didn’t even get any rain!!  I was up at sunrise and ready to find out about Yosemite.

Day 17

We hung out among the South Tufas at Mono Lake.  So alien, so salty smelling, so surreal.  

Thank you to all the road workers that cleared the pass last night!!!!  The pass is open and Yosemite is back on the schedule. 

Absolutely loved Yosemite.  Jamey is already planning our next trip out to California, just to hike around Yosemite when the waterfalls are running.  This area needs to be backpacked, since there are so many people visiting here.  I don’t think you can get the full experience while hiking with so many people around.   

This beautiful glacial lake called to us.  Spent some time just soaking up the scenery.

On the way out of Yosemite, we stopped at the Mariposa Giant Sequoia old growth stand.  The girls were upset at people carving into the trees and collecting cones.  Didn’t spend too much time here, since we will see more old growth with less people in a couple of days.

Got to our campsite early enough for the girls to go swimming in Bass Lake. 

Day 18

Left for Big Sur this morning.  Can’t believe how dry this part of the drive was.  Empty sand dunes stretched on for a long ways.  Yellowed grass was about the only vegetation you could see until you go to the irrigation ditches.  Scary drought - lots of signs about water rights here in the southern part of the Central Valley!  Trees on all sides - peaches, apricot, pecan, maybe pistachio, and not a hint of apple or pear.

Big Sur on the other hand was overflowing with water, once you got over the last mountain range (we lost count after the 3rd range that day - Up to go Down, Left to go Right).  Beautiful coastline on a curvy road and then we finally got down to the Pacific Ocean and saw lots of elephant seals hanging out at the beach – flipping sand to keep the sun away.  

There were sea lions thinking about coming onto the beach, but I think they got one look at the elephant seals and changed their minds.   The elephant seals had to use lots of "sand screen".

Hiked down into Jade Cove – there was a lot of jade, but not exactly what the girls were imagining.  We were approaching high tide, so not too much to collect.   However, there was a pod of whales just off the coast and I even got to see one fully breach.   I felt like I was in Maine.  Girls hung out in the waves.
Got to the campsite and the girls didn’t feel like they had gotten wet enough.  They played in the stream (Big Sur River for westerners used to much smaller rivers) for a while.

Day 19

Up early and went into San Francisco, so the kids could play at the Exploratorium.  Another long drive up through agricultural areas ("10 artichokes for $1", "10 grapefruit for $1", and "1 for quart of strawberries").  And huge fields of industrial strawberry pickers with 2 porta-potties.  Support your local farmer, please.

Exploratorium was awesome - we have never been to a place with so many hands-on exhibits.  Definitely worth another visit or ten.  Props to the guy who made a toothpick sculpture of SF.

Sociological experiment – how grossed out are you by seeing these pictures?  I will say, it took courage for the girls to drink out of these fountains!

Have to say, though, I do not see the appeal of San Francisco.  I know a lot of people love it, but the drivers are overly aggressive, the houses are on top of each other, there is so little green anywhere, and some punks stole our campsite with its view of the Golden Gate Bridge!!!  I didn’t mind leaving and don’t feel the need to go back.  Ever.

Drove the craziest and most insane road in the dark to get to the Mendocino Forest (just something away from San Francisco), where I learned once more that Californian drivers only drive left so they can drive right, only go up to go down, don’t understand that there is a center line or lane markers, and have no trouble tailgating with their high beams on to make you drive faster through switchbacks.  Thank goodness for pullouts. I have never seen so many 5-7% grade roads (up AND down) with 20 mph speed limits on the switchbacks.

In the end we decided to give up on camping tonight and found a really nice hotel – ok, maybe there are some redeeming qualities to California. 

Day 20 – 21

Hung out along the redwood coast today.  It was crazy foggy for a lot of it, so not a ton of pictures.  We waited at an overlook for sunset at one point, but we got fogged and chilled out.   Will we ever see the sun sink into the sea?

Went past the overlook that Jamey and I hung out at 20 years ago when we were on our road trip – still in love after all these years!

Woke up the next morning to go on a drive down the road where "Return of the Jedi" was filmed (the race through the Endor forest), then went on a fantastic hike through the redwoods.  Jamey said, “Standing at the foot of ancients, our cameras are useless.”

After the redwoods, we headed to Oregon.  First stop... Crater Lake.  Bri said, "I guess the color blue on the postcard wasn't photoshopped.  It looks so fake."

Postponing our trip to the volcanic monument near Bend until tomorrow.  Tonight we are going to take an extended relaxation break playing games at a hotel.  Halfway through the trip - it has been fantastic so far!  We have had our issues (like the stolen campsite), but the girls are learning to think fast and be flexible with plans.  We were a little tired today, so tonight is a much needed respite :)